Tuesday, July 16, 2019

Madagascar Overland - Paradise for whom? Part two



As a chocolate addict, a lover of essential oil, a vegan with an affair with fruits, I was in heaven at the 1,500hectar Cacoa plantation in Madagascar (Mada), with its mansion, swimming pool and staff on stand by. Nature was so intense in Mada, all my senses, smell, hear, sight, touch, taste and my third eye were at full capacity, making me present & living in the moment at all times. My early morning chakra meditation were done with utmost joy, and I had an out of body expereince connecting to everything around me while on the island.
Going to Northern Mada, Nosy be, from the moment I flew onto the island, I felt that the islands were trully a natural paradise.Traveling around Nosy be island, the hypnotising scent of ylang-ylang blossoms drifts through the air, no wonder its named 'the perfumed island'. The main city of Nosy be is Andoany(its colonial name being Hell Ville),apart from the grocery shoping, open market, cafe and the delight of seeing Ethiopian Airlines office with its air condition at blast, it is not as interesting as Ambatoloka beach area. Andoany connects Nosy Be to mainland Madagascar by ferry, mainly to Ankify. While Ambatoloka beach hosts most hotels, bars, restaurants, as well as a vast number of western men over 70yrs with young teenage black woman (A scene in Mada that hurt my soul). I rented a car for the day, and looped the whole island for my birthday, it was an epic adventure with strangers, which ended at an expat bar on the beach.
While traveling, and observing the country as a conscious traveler, I also strive to connect to not just nature but its inhabitants of all socio-economic sides, seeking my own truth within the countries I travel to, especially as a fellow AfricanAlthough I loved Madagascar as a unique place to visit and amazing things to experience, it has been quite difficult and stressful to witness the inequality between the foreigners and local community. Chosing to look beyond the tourist trap, and in trying to see the bigger picture as a conscious traveler and a highly educated African, it dawned on me that everywhere I went on the main island or surrounding islands one can see the unfair distribution of wealth was evident in every sector, and not between Malgasy's. Almost like an economic colonisation by foreigners, that own not just homes, resorts, islands and huge plantations, but groceries, jewlers stores, coffee houses etc. It was a similar uneasy feeling, experience I had when traveling Solo in Southern Africa (Botswana, Namibia and South Africa), that feeling of being treated as a second hand citizen as a black woman even in my continent Africa, but respected more as a tourist. Seeing the natural wealth of Mada, yet noticing the Malagash population on dire povery, with the lowest litracy rate in Africa, was heartbreaking; so many youth in all parts of mada unemployed; isolated and worn down villages next to expensive resorts owned by foreigners;  It was heart breaking to see the bigger picture!!  Thus my untaxed tourist fee payment for their anger, furistration, and distrust of foreigners like me, was intentionally stealing $100 from my bag, as well as finding every oppertunity to scum and bully me, especially tour operators and service providers with their currency exchange scums, as to them I was just another tourist. My soul was heavy with sadness, as much as I loved traveling in Mada, I had to share my experience with a deeper anderstanding of this complex continent, Africa, that is healing from its past.

 Madagascar is a must visit with its unique flora and fauna, and phenominal natural wonders, but stay alert at all times, even in your room as a Traveler, as well as with hotel managers, especially if you are female, remind people of your rights and expectations. I was advised by a lot of travelers that I am too sensetive, empathatic, and should have a thicker skin, and be more aggressive, but feeling the lessons of some pains & being uncomfortable emotionally has always been my strength. As the enlightenment lessons after the experience is the high for living my truth, with a more spiritually connected universal purpose, a strive to be kind than right, and not reacting to my ferar of the enviroment before fully comprehending its context.
Traveling to Mada reminded me that although I love and enjoy traveling Solo since I was young, when I travel as a consciouse solo African woman in Africa, there has been a few similar incidents, issues and learning lessons that shocked me along the way. I have come to accept my sensitivity as an Ethiopian and American, since my identity, pride, and my awarness of my rights as a human is imprinted in who I am. Thus to be fair, my intolerance for unfairness and colonial residuel in Africa is at a high, but I try to let my wisdom, intellect, kindness, love and inner strength guide me to seeking to understand, and remind myself to pray to be used for a higher purpose, than just merely reacting on an emotional state due to prejudice towards the brown tourists and master like regard towards white westerners. So I will keep on traveling to every country in Africa per my bucket list, to find my own analysis of each country with an African Womans wisdom & truth, without a middle agent distorting my lense or my passion for justice overwhelming my senses. I am confident I will see a more inclusive, progressive African economy and society in the near future, made by Africa!!
Melkam Guzo (Happy travels)

“Take only pictures, leave only footprints, kill nothing but time” ☆Conciouse Traveler

By Dutchess @Deldeyoch

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